The View From Here . . .

This is written in an internet cafe in Madrid, where I am in the next to last day of my trip to Spain with young Robert, who turned eleven a few days ago. We started in Madrid, took the fast AVE train to Seville and then came back for a few days in the Madrid area with a side trip to Toledo.

One of the guidebooks that I have accumulated describes Spain as being "in Europe but not of Europe." The description seems to fit since the country remains a very idiosyncratic land even as it shares other common characteristics with its neighbors.

A very noticeable difference is the schedule. There is a three hour siesta between 1 pm and 4 pm, when many businesses and offices close, and people typically work until 7. The result is a very late dinner schedule where restaurants often do not serve the evening meal until 9 and start to fill up around 10.

However, since evening hunger pangs are universal, the Spanish answer is the tapas bar, a place that offers small portions of such delicacies as chorizo (sausage), cheese, meatballs and olives plus beverages to tide people over until dinner time. Fortunately for both Robert and me, children seem quite welcome at the tapas bars. Indeed, we got a glimpse of the tapas phenomenon when we went into a nearly empty place near the Seville cathedral at around 8:30 on Easter night. Thirty minutes later, however, it seemed that the entire city had gathered there, with crowds spilling out into the street.

Another striking part of Spain is the continuing influence of the Moors, who were finally driven out of Spain in 1492. Many of the castles and palaces that we saw are in the Mudejar style which combines strong Arabic influence with the later Christian culture. Also, although Spanish is a Romance language derived from Latin, quite a few words, especially those beginning with "al", are derived from Arabic.

Spain is also a quite religious place. Like much of Europe, there are large and impressive cathedrals (we saw the one in Seville and climbed to the top of the tower and also visited the particularly impressive edifice in Toledo). But unlike other places, the art is accompanied by a considerable amount of fervent devotion. For example, in Seville during holy week numerous hooded groups of penitents called "brotherhoods" stage processions throughout the city.

One positive attribute that Spain does share with the rest of Europe is tremendous collections of art. Madrid, of course, boasts the Prado museum, a beautiful structure with the definitive collection of works by Francisco de Goya as well as a new major collection of pieces by Albrect Durer. But even smaller cities have major art by important masters. Toledo, for example, has a significant collection by El Greco in its cathedral.

As for the lad, he intrepidly endured the heavy doses of culture as well as his father's frequent attempts to make him express his thoughts in Spanish. (Robert studied some Spanish in school this year and we also did the Pimsleur CDs before we departed.) He did seem to appreciate what he saw and experienced and also managed to talk me into letting him go bungee jumping off a trampoline in Seville and this afternoon, bicycle riding in Madrid¥s major park.

There is a vitality and uniqueness to Spain and I believe we will remember this trip for years to come.